Bora beyond the beach
By Gianna G. Maniego
The urge to close my eyes was almost too strong to resist. But I was afraid if I did, I’d miss seeing my life flashing by.
Granted, 40 km an hour may not exactly fall under the category of “breakneck speed.” But when you’re harnessed to a steel pipe contraption that is basically held together by flimsy leather strips, careening down a muddy dirt road at ANY speed is enough excuse to call on all your patron saints.
Not that I was, really. There’s a certain thrill in knowing you’re doing something you’ve never done before. The fact that you’re doing it in the pouring rain just ups the ante a wee bit.
Then again, this is Boracay. If you don’t spend 90 percent of the time soaking wet, then you must be doing something wrong—or dirty.
It’s Day One of our three-day Island Adventure, organized and sponsored by Cebu Pacific and Boracay Tropics, and already we’re chucked out of our comfort zone to “experience the other side of Boracay.”
The lot of us (consisting of members of media and Cebu Pacific representatives) were all on board all terrain vehicles (ATVs) and the steel contraptions they call “bug cars” (not exactly the kind of name that engenders a lot of confidence).
“ATVs are really popular among the more adventurous tourists,” says Annie Convocar, marketing consultant of Boracay Tropics. ATVs are four-wheel motor bikes that visitors can rent by the hour to explore the more rugged areas of the island. “I think they were brought here by Koreans.”
(We did spot quite a few Korean ladies confidently navigating the dirt roads on their ATVs. I could tell from the kitten-heel Candie-style sandals they were wearing.)
After about 20 minutes, we make a pitstop, not to rest, apparently, but to proceed on foot to the top of Boracay’s highest peak, Mt. Luho. Why? Just because. Oh and of course, the view is spectacular. It’s well worth a few scrapes and bruises (inevitable when you’re climbing a set of foot-high steps haphazardly carved into the mountain wall.) Wind whipping through the air, waves crashing in the distant shore... this is a side of Bora not a lot of tourists have seen. Clearly, there’s more to this island paradise than basking in the sand and shopping.
As the rain begins pouring down in earnest, we return our ATVs and bug cars and head back to the Tropics, where solicitous staffers are waiting to hand out thick towels.
More than a party place
The ATV rides are part of Boracay Tropics’ Adventure package, which is exclusively offered to local residents and balikbayans. The three-day, two night deal costs P11,800 and, aside from amenities like accommodations in a Superior or Deluxe room and lunch and dinner at TropiCafe, includes the ATV rides; reef-walking, spelunking through the underground caves of Crystal Cove, parasailing or jetskiing, and island hopping.
The adventure package is fast becoming a hot favorite especially among off-season visitors, like us, and provides the perfect lead-up to our coverage of Cebu Pacific’s Manila-to-Caticlan maiden route. (But that’s getting ahead of the story).
To give us a (wet) taste of the island’s night life, the Tropics staff laid out a sumptuous luau on the patio, composed of chori burgers, hotdogs, baked oysters, beef kebabs, and other bounties from the sea. (Seriously, if you’re a foodie with a predilection for seafood, this is about as close to heaven as you can get.)
The resort also recruited trinket sellers, henna tattoo artists, and zipline dancers—some of the more colorful characters on Bora’s beach—to keep us entertained.
Barely a year-old, Boracay Tropics Resort Hotel has already earned its AAA (the highest rating given to hotels and resorts) from the Department of Tourism. Located at Station 2, the resort blends Mediterranean and Asian architecture on a sprawling estate of verdant landscape.
It has 44 elegantly-appointed Superior and Deluxe rooms and six Cabana Suites. The Premier Suites include a receiving area and a kitchenette. All rooms are equipped with air-conditioning units, mini-bar, private shower with hot and cold water, cable TV and safety deposit vault.
The resort is owned by unassuming couple Bert and Cely Sarabia, and is the result of the couple’s quest for accommodations that would satisfy their discerning standards.
From a thatched hut built on a 1,000-sqm lot, the Sarabias constructed eight cottages and four duplex units to accommodate the burgeoning number of island visitors. Originally christened Rainbow Villas, the resort was essentially a mom-and-pop affair, in keeping with the ambience of the early Boracay days. The Manila-based Sarabias were long distance operators so Bert’s relatives ran and maintained the resort. Serious business considerations were not a priority.
It was only when adjacent lots were offered up for sale that the couple realized their little business venture could level up to a seriously profitable enterprise. By 2004, as the political and economic climate became more favorable for tourism investment, the couple decided they were in the hotel and resort business for the long haul and proceeded to reinvent Rainbow Villas into a bigger, more cohesively-structured and commercial resort. After extensive renovations, the resort was reopened under the name Boracay Tropics, which offers, among other things, excellent massages from its resident masseuse, Offel (about whom many members of the media have waxed poetic).
With everyone feted, sated, and generally winding down after a taxing day, we call it a night.
“I hope it doesn’t rain tomorrow,” says Jeannette Reyes, of Gatchie and Partners, Cebu Pacific’s PR consultants. “We’re going reef-walking!”
Make like mermaid
The following day, the sun shows up and the day is deemed sunny enough to go ahead with our activities, despite the choppy waters that made for a really bumpy ferry ride to one of the island coves. Once we got there, however, the waters became calm enough to push through with the reef walking.
Reef walking, as it turns out, allows you to walk on the ocean floor (some 20 feet underwater) and commune with the fish, wearing nothing but a heavy, space age-looking helmet. The water keeps the heavy helmet buoyant and is donned just before you submerge yourself.
Terry (Gutierrez of Travelife), KR (Abella, our photographer) and I are the second batch of walkers in our group. The first batch, consisting of Beting (Dolor, of Philippine News and Philippine Playboy), Sarah (Primicias of Manila Bulletin), Brian (Santos of Philippine Daily Inquirer), Mapet (Dioso of Daily Tribune), and Vanessa (Balagapo of What’s On/Expat), are already on shore.
“Underwater, you can breathe normally. The water won’t get in unless you look down, so just remember to look straight ahead,” our guide advises as I slowly descend the steel ladder which, thankfully, reaches down to the floor.
I was a bit claustrophobic at first, but I eventually forgot all about this in my excitement over the wonderfully colored fish that swim out to greet me. Our guide hands out bread to feed the fish, who seem to be expecting this treat. I pick out a favorite—a silver one with bluish-green scales—and name it Dory (sorry, it was the only name that came to mind). I try running after it, but I keep forgetting these fish are smart and tourist-savvy—unless you have something interesting to offer them, they prefer to observe from a safe distance.
Meanwhile, our guide makes like a mermaid and lies down on the floor, idly playing tag with one of the ink-black fish that was swimming nearby (old friends?).
After about 30 minutes, our guide gives us the thumbs up, the signal for us to surface, and reluctantly, we ascend to the boat.
Ha! I did it!
If anybody told me a month ago, I would be swimming with the fish, I would have said he or she has been watching too many mafia movies. Now, I have bragging rights.
If only for the extraordinary experience of walking on the ocean floor, this under the sea adventure is well worth the effort. But to literally swim with the fish and explore the multicolored wonders under the water? That’s pure gravy.
Spelunking in Crystal Cove, I have to admit, is not as exciting as reef-walking. But then again, I skipped out on exploring the second cave, which, aside from requiring you to crawl across a foot-wide ledge, has the added feature of crashing waves handicapping your trek. (They should include this in the Amazing Race Asia.) But those of us who went, came back revved up (not to mention soaking wet), and ready for lunch.
Shopping or sailing?
After a really sumptuous meal at Cyma (which, as it turns out, is not just related to the one in Makati, but is the original resto to boot), we regroup to map out our afternoon activities.
Our choices: shopping or parasailing? To the more adventurous soul, this would probably be a no-brainer. But hey, you’re talking to inveterate shopaholics here.
So we split up: Peachy (Guioguio of Business Mirror), Winnie (Velasquez of Malaya), Rosbel (Bunag of Gatchie and Partners) and I head for the stalls at D’Mall, and the others go parasailing (which, judging from the photos, seems extremely fun if you don’t mind getting wet—again!)
Let me give you a tip: If you ever need to haggle when you go shopping, bring Peachy along. She’s about the best at bargaining I’ve ever seen.
Dinner, at the Bamboo Lounge is on Cebu Pacific, when RG (Orense of Cebu Pacific) reminds us of our early start the next day. We’re meeting Cebu Pacific’s maiden flight to Caticlan. So the, er, more mature ones among us decide to call an early night, while the more energetic “young ‘uns” check out the night life.
New plane, new route
The flight from Manila is slightly delayed, so we try to entertain ourselves by playing name that tune with the band playing for the Ati Atihan dancers.
The Cebu Pacific plane is probably the fourth plane of the day (then again, the day’s just starting), and what a handsome plane it is. The spanking new ATR 72-500 manufactured by the Toulouse, France-based Avions de Transport Regional has a seating capacity of 72, with two jumpseats in the first row that face the rest of the seats instead of front.
The aircraft is the first of several being acquired by the airline to service the route. Cebu Pacific now services the port five times a day, with as many turnaround flights to Manila. With the arrival of its second aircraft this month, the schedule is expected to increase to nine times a day.
“We are very happy to inform you that this route will be serviced by our brand-new, state-of-the-art aircraft, the ATR 72-500, manufactured by France-based Avions de Transport Regional, the world leader in the turboprop market.
With its great efficiency and reliability, we are confident that the ATR will greatly help in increasing the accessibility of Caticlan and Boracay to more visitors, both local and foreign... I would like to take this opportunity to tell you how pleased we are to finally be able to serve Caticlan [Aklan], gateway to one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Boracay has played a very significant role in the country’s tourism, and one of our priorities now is to help make this destination even more dynamic by offering more options for air travel, and our low-fare, great value proposition to travelers,” says Michael Shau, vice president for airport services of Cebu Pacific, at the inaugural festivities.
Cebu Pacific assures its clients of a unique flying experience. We try this ourselves on our trip back. Our flight lives up to advertisement—smooth, fast, unique (especially if you try out the opposite-facing jumpseats). Exactly the proper way to end an island adventure.